Cutting out Backing Plates

I've managed to cut out the backing plates for my new through-hulls.  I had NO idea how hard it would be to cut 1/2" FRP sheets.  I'm using 20 TPI bi-metal blades in my jig-saw, and I can cut about two 4" backing plates before the teeth are ground to nothing.  The normal wood blades last about 30 seconds.  When the blades are cutting, it's very slow going as well.

At this point they are cut out and ready to be drilled for the bolts and through-hull.  I need to pick up some hole saws for the drill press next, and find the length I need for the bronze bolts.  Today I was able to get the hull ground clean in the areas these will mount, so I'm making good progress.

Now I can only hope that I won't blow through hole-saws the way I did jig saw blades as they are a lot more expensive.

Blister Repair: The Saga Continues

After finishing all the grinding from the first coat of Six/10 I scrubbed the hull with a Scotch-Brite pad to remove any bottom paint residue, and to clear any amine blush.  Today I returned with my final tube of Six/10 and filled the minor depressions which were left when I used the spreader to smooth the repairs.  Not my idea of a good time.

In hindsight, I am absolutely certain that I should have sanded the hull down, used traditional fairing compound of some sort (Interfill, West, etc.) and then re-applied the barrier coat.  While I am certain my current track will end with a solid repair, it is a horribly time consuming process to apply and sand the Six/10.  Live and learn.

Next step will be re-sanding the hull to fair the blisters.  This time it should go quicker as I have applied much less epoxy.  My last task will be determining whether or not to reapply a barrier coat to the whole hull, or to spot repair.  The areas I sanded occasionally broke through the barrier coat, so at a minimum they will need to be repaired.  It was isolated though, so I'm leaning towards repairing only as needed.

Stay tuned and we'll find out which path I choose.