CS27 Survey

Having nearly rebuilt a 1977 CS27 from the bare hull up, I have reached a point where I have a pretty good idea about what is and is not vulnerable.  I've often thought to myself that I'm certain I bought the correct boat design, but perhaps I may have bought the wrong implementation of that design.  by that, I mean to say Ravat needed far more sweat and finance than I ever intended to invest.  In an effort to install a silver lining in that cloud, I thought it would be useful to put together information for people considering a CS27 so that they would know what they were getting into.

The content of this page is not intended to be authoritative or complete.  It's just a holding tank for thoughts I have and things I have encountered.  I am not a certified marine surveyor, nor should this list be used as a substitute for a valued professional opinion.  I do believe it could be a very useful indicator of what boats are worth investing in a survey and which boats may be passed by.  It could also be useful to someone who already owns a CS27 and would like some ideas on how to improve their fine yacht.

Contents

1. 1 Structural
   1. 1.1 Hole Potting
   2. 1.2 Gate Stanchion Backing Plates
   3. 1.3 Chainplate Openings

Structural

Hole Potting

None of the deck piercings in the CS27 are properly potted.  Almost no stock boats are potted, which is why we have so many structural issues with old boats.  I believe the best procedure for doing this is documented by MainSail at his Compass Marine site.  There are two article you need to read and live by:

• Sealing Deck Penetrations to Prevent Core Rot
• Re-Bedding Deck Hardware

If you don't do this, assume your decks will rot and become structurally unsound.  I'm serious.

Gate Stanchion Backing Plates

With the exception of the gate stanchions, all the stanchion bases mount on the toe rail completely.  This is an excellent load distributor.  In contrast, the gate stanchions extend into the fiberglass.  If the deck core gets wet, it can soften where the inner bolts pierce the deck and eventually fail to support the load and allow the upper laminate to crack.  This leads to a total side-deck replacement.  You don't want that.

The solution is to make sure all the deck holes are properly potted, and to add a nice backing plate to the stanchion bases.  Ideally while you are at it, add plates to all of the stanchion bases.  But at a minimum make sure you add them to the gate stanchions.

I made mine from structural pre-fab 1/4" fiberglass sheets bedded in epoxy thickened with colloidal silica.  I think 1/4" aluminum would be better, but all I could find at convenient locations was 1/8" stock, so I used fiberglass instead.  It was a beast to cut that stuff, but I guess that's a good sign of its strength.

Chainplate Openings

The cut-outs in the deck where the chain plates to through are much larger than they need to be.  As a result, the sealant is being asked to do much more work than is necessary.  As with the other holes, this is not potted and needs to be.  Use the standard Don Casey technique and gut out out, but we'll fill it a bit differently.

Load up a syringe with epoxy thickened just enough not to sag much.  That means you can suck it into the syringe, but just barely.  Now grease or wax the chainplates and loosely install them with screws.  Now, using the syringe, inject the thickened epoxy up into the gap from the cabin interior.  You should be filling approximately 1/8" of gap through the 1" deep deck.

The Don Casey cast-island method will not work with the CS standard chainplates, unfortunately, so make sure you pot the hole well, and watch the interior for leaks to catch them early.  Alternatiely, re-bed those plates eavery few years proactively.

CS27 Resources

The Internet has been an incredible learning tools for me.  While books build a strong foundation, there is always something thats a little different on my boat than it was in the book's examples.  That's where the Internet comes in.  You can ask a question of Google and find someone who has done exactly the same thing, and chances are pretty good their web site provides what you need.  When that doesn't work, a short visit to the forums is usually all it takes.

If a home isn't a home without a dog, then a web site isn't a web site without obligatory links.  These sites have officially been helpful, thought provoking, entertaining, or some combination there of.

Forums

• Sailnet:  This is just about my one-stop, go-to, all knowing sailing magic 8-ball.  If someone on this site doesn't know the answer I probably shouldn't be doing the job.
• SailoatOwners.com:  Less frequently used by me, but Gooogle regularly brings me wisdom from its archives, so definitely worth a post.
• CS Yahoo Group:  If you own a CS boat you should already have joined this.  If you haven't, get in there.  Yes, you really do need this.
• CS ProBoards Forum: The CSOA Yahoo Group's more active members are strongly encouraging use of this site, but the historical knowledge that's archived in he bowels of the old Yahoo group make it hard to just do a clean split.  This forum is great for it's ability to better format posts.  In the end you need both CS sites.
• CS Yachts Wiki

Blogs / Technical

• Panbo: Fantastic view into the highly dynamic world of marine electronics.
• Sika Marine Literature: Sikaflex brand goops and how to use them.

Blogs / Cruising

• Sea Weasel: Another CS27 owner who is very active in racing and cruising.  This blogger has gone through many of his maintenance projects on the site, which is helpful.  Can't help but enjoy his attitude as well.
• Zero To Cruising:  I enjoy this one because although they are ahead of me in the learning curve, this couple is figuring it out as they go in a very humble manner, and proving that its more about persistence and attitude than money and rocket science.
• Sailorgirl: There aren't a lot of CS27 folks out there on the Internet, and it's always cool to find those needles in the haystack.
• Cuising LeaLea: Very well written site, and an equally well produced series of YouTube videos by this couple who is cruising aboard a Albin Vega 27.  I find it interesting specifically because their boat is similar in size to the CS27, and they have really made the most of the smaller vessel.  Yet another reinforcement that there really is no need for a 40 footer.

Misc. Web Sites

• NOAA Booklet Charts 
• Local Notice to Mariners - Ninth District Coast Guard
• Marine Forecast for Port of Rochester area (Weather Underground)
• Craigslist
• http://yanmarhelp.com/index.htm Yanmar Help site - misc information about Yanmar engines.

Internet Chandlers

• Defender: This site will have the best price 9 times out of 10, and their shipping is very fast.
• Jamestown Distributors:  Their prices are not usually the best, but they are not bad.  They tend to have more specialty boat building supplies, and can be convenient to order from when you have a big project with fiberglass or hardware.  There is also a lot of good information on their site.
• Hamilton Marine:  Very good prices, although usually just a touch higher than Defender.  An excellent selection as well.
• West Marine:  Their prices are very high, but they sell everything and there's probably one within a short drive from wherever you live.  I buy enough things from them that I signed up for their paid member rewards program and it paid for itself.  Why?  Because there's a lot of things you want to touch before you buy, and a lot of times I don't want to wait for a catalog order to come in.
• GenuineDealz.com: Absolutely unbelievable prices on marine wiring and electrical supplies.  No, Anchor is not the only manufacturer of ABYC compliant wires.
• McMaster-Carr:  The hardware store of hardware stores.  This place carries absolutely everything you will even need in raw materials.  Every kind of nut, bolt, washer, grommet, fastener, and even pre-fab fiberglass sheet goods when you are too lazy to do your own layup (or when you want a resin infusion ratio which most of us can't do manually!).
• Gemeco Marine:  The recommended source for Airmar transducers (and they have many other cool items!).  Airmar makes almost all transducers, and sometimes you need something that Raymarine doesn't re-brand.

Sealants

There are a lot of different types of goop on a boat.  This isn't something a normal boat owner who isn't restoring a 30 year old vessel would care about in the way I do, but since I've spent a good chunk of the winter of 2009 learning about goop, I thought I'd record some of my notes and choices here to provide a starting point for others.  The number one thing I learned is that people's personal choices on goop are very personal.  When someone picks a goop they stand by it and often can't believe someone would pick a different one.  Of course, that goop is often what's keeping their boat afloat and thereby keeping their family alive.  That's a good enough reason to take it seriously!

Goop Categories:

• Sealants / Adhesives
• Paint
• Lubricants
• Cleaning

Tools

Ahh yes, what would projects be without an excuse to use tools.  Since the dawn of man, tools have been a celebrated category of personal property that rivals jewelry and fine art.  Well, that's my take on it.

This section is about tools which you will need if you are considering a major boat refit.  It will also be useful if you are planning a series of small projects over a few seasons.

1. West Marine Manual Oil Changer
2. Dremel

CS27 Ravat Voyages

So far, it's hard to call any of the trips a true voyage.  We had a short season in 2009, and spring of 2010 began the refit which will eat up a good chunk of the season.  I've had the pleasure of numerous day sails around the port of Rochester and I'm looking forward to doing some cruising this summer and fall.  At this point I have a to-do list of places I'd like to cruise to.  For any of you who are true cruisers, try not to laugh as I stick my toes on the water.  I know these are small trips, but you have to start somewhere.

First triumph will be a small camp-out in the marina with my son.  Just a chance to get to see how the bunks feel in a real overnight.

• Irondequoit bay:  One small step sideways for mankind, one giant leap forward for me.  I'm hoping to find a decent spot to  anchor overnight and see how it feels to drop the anchor in the water, spend the night on the hook, cook breakfast, etc.
• Sodus Bay:  A solid day sail, and a great bay with good anchorage, and lots of places to eat or get help if need be.
• Little Sodus Bay:  Just a bit farther than Sodus Bay, and another chance to explore and learn what I'm doing.
• Oswego:  Maybe stretching the day trip?  Who knows?  But it's the next closest target...
• Main Duck Island:  This place just looks neat to me.  It's unique.  Not sure what the route will be and where I'll spend the night, but I want to see this place.

By the time I knock off this list I think I'll be ready for some longer trips on the Canadian side of the lake, possibly including the Thousand Islands. 

Rochester to Pultneyville

After four years of boat ownership, and somewhat frequent use of my vessel, I started this year off still having only completed day sails; I had never left my dock and not returned to the same later in the day.  Fortunately, this year marks many changes, and the first sail of the year turned out to be both a true adventure and a lesson in seamanship.

Just before casting off, ready for adventure!

Having bought a new home which is not very convenient to the marina I've been staying at, it was time to find a new home for Ravat.  I was also looking to join a yacht club this year as I have completed enough of the big projects to afford me more time to participate in sailing and social activities.  These two vectors converged on the Pultneyville Yacht Club, which I am excited to be a new member of.  I rented a slip there, and joined this spring, so the only remaining task was to get my boat to her new home.

The trip from Rochester to Pultneyville is approximately 20 nautical miles as the crow flies.  I planned a full day since I did not wish to fall back on motoring unless necessary, and I knew that under sail I might be anywhere between 3 and 6 knots.  That's a spread of roughly 3 to six hours without taking into account the amount of tacking required.  Rarely does the wind follow the crow.

Ravat ready to depart Rochester

We departed Rochester around 09:45 with topped off fuel, ice, and munchies.The forecast included morning showers with a chance of thunderstorms late in the afternoon.  I was somewhat foolishly anxious to depart, and thought it likely we'd make Pultneyville before the storms hit, or ride them out for an hour or so if necessary.







As it turned out, the majority of our trip was ideal sailing conditions.  A decent breeze kept us moving at over 5 knots, the temperature was pleasant, and seas were in the 1-2 foot range.  Ravat was in her glory under full main and 150% genoa clearing 5 knots.

Updating the logs in perfect conditions.

It was later in the afternoon that the cloud came into view.  I could see clear skies at the tail of this storm, and all around it, so I knew we'd be able to ride out whatever was coming.  Looking at wind direction, and storm size, I decided to head out farther into the lake and see if the storm would skirt the shore.  As luck would have, that's exactly what happened.  The storm passed inland of us with winds building throughout the duration.  Those winds built slowly, but steadily until I was reminded of a seamanship rule that I had neglected...  Reef BEFORE you need to.

Storm approaching...

By the time most of that storm system had passed us, the wind levels had built way past the canvas I was flying. The boat was rocketing along nicely, but it had become very difficult to gibe the boat.  A surprise gust hit us, and we rounded up aggressively with quite an exciting moment of healing.  I let the main all the way out, which spilled enough wind get us back under control, but while we were headed up the sails and rig took quite a shaking.  We headed up one more time briefly to reduce sail, and furled the genoa.  We were still over-canvassed, but only a bit.

Twenty minutes later the winds stopped gusting and became a bit more predictable, and slightly less intense.  I was able to take advantage of that time to put a reef in the main, and bring out a slice of genoa to balance the rig.  Steering and healing were finally back under control.

Reefing the Main.

A short time later we had Pultneyville's harbor in sight.  The winds began gusting again, and remained quite strong.  We watched a catamaran come out of the beach like a rocket, both sailors obviously looking for serious adventure.  I went about tying on the fenders.  By the time I looked back up to see how far out they had gone, all that was left were two hulls upturned, and two sailors working on righting their boat.  We circled back in case they needed help, but assistance was not required.

With sails put away and fenders deployed, we made our approach into the harbor, and docked without incident in our new slip. Despite the high winds, Pultneyville's harbor seems very sheltered, and I had little problem landing as intended.  Ravat had suffered a torn seam in the genoa, but otherwise no issues.  Every time I test myself on this boat she rises to the occasion behaving predictably and keeping me safe.  The CS27 is a truly magnificent vessel.

Having prevailed over our adventure, we promptly walked up to the Pultneyville Deli Company's bar for a hamburger and beer, both of which, were exquisite.

Are you prepared for a hole in your hull?

Have you ever wondered what you would do if you were flying along and heard a giant THUD as debris in the water put a hole in your hull?  If not, you should.  Part of proper seamanship is preparedness, and to me that means a lot of playing the "what if" game.

These two videos were fascinating to me.  In the first video we see what kind of strength it takes to put a hole in the hull in the first place - good to know.  We also see what it looks like when a big hole is below the waterline.  I'm glad that I haven't seen this in real life thus far in my sailing career.

What really surprised me was that the best tool for stemming a leak was a small tarp held in place with light lines.  I still really like the idea of the Forespar plugs, but what an easy trick that tarp is.  I never would have guessed it to be more effective than a sail used for the same purpose.

Watch the videos below, and spend a little time pondering what your plan is if this should happen to you...