And the chainplates are...

Pristine!  I'm a lucky man, because I really did NOT want to bring them to a machine shop for duplication.  The butyl came off with little effort, and I potted the holes with my beloved colloidal silica.  They are pretty sloppy though, so I think tomorrow I will wax up the chainplates and bed them in colloidal silica to minimize the area the butyl needs to fill.  If I do that first thing in the morning I should be able to bed the plates before I leave.

I've also been able to get the hinge holes in the cockpit lockers potted, so they will be ready to reinstall soon.  I'm looking forward to that as moving about the cockpit is a bit of a health hazard at the moment.

The big milestone I'm happy to report on is the pedestal.  It has been mounted again, and looks fantastic.  The new steering chain and rope is in place, and the engine controls are ready to be hooked back up if I can remember how to do it.

I'm slowly closing in on all of the leaks from the deck hardware, re-bedding this and that as I find wet spots.  I want the boat 100% dry before I put the new cushions back in place.  No need to put new mildew into the mix.

Tomorrow I hope to get the chainplates done, re-bed the forestay hardware, install the cockpit locker hinges,  and see if I can get a few through-hulls installed...  All before lunch!  (Stop laughing - that's not nice!).

Day of Great Progress

Yet again I am indebted to my fabulous wife for tolerating a boat yard marathon while she toiled against the maintenance of our home single-handed.  The outcome of this spousal sacrifice was that the bow hatch is now installed in Ravat, and looking very nice.  All in all the installation went as planned to the degree that any boat project does.  The new hatch looks infinitely better than the old one, and works well too.  

May I suggest again that if you plan to retrofit a Lewmar Medium Profile hatch into a Good Old Boat, get the trim and screen kit.  Just trust me, it makes things look better and saves you hassle.  The screen rocks too.  The only problem so far is that when dumb bees fly into my cabin, they have lost an escape vector.  I had a pterodactyl-yellow-jacket mutant hybrid bombing around the cabin today completely freaking me out.  Not sure how much of my stress was the direct result of that screen, but I'm thinking about fitting it with explosive bolts in case of emergency. 

I was also able to make the final hole in the hull for my depth transducer.  That wraps up my through-hull cutting at long last.  After I clean the hull I can barrier-coat the fairing block and get all the through hulls installed.  After all the sanding and cutting that's gone on over the past week the inside of Ravat was a mess.  I did a thorough job with the shop vac and restored some civility to the interior before ascending to the cockpit to revisit the sole repairs.

Since I am relocating the engine controls from the old style tubes aft of the pedestal into the pedestal I had an extra set of holes for the tubes and mounting brackets.  I had previously done the 12:1 grind out and filled them with eight layers of 10 oz. cloth.  This was ready to grind out, and grind them I did.  The repairs came out great and I was able to clean up and put down a good layer of gel coat.  I'm still not quite in full mastery of predicting how much gel coat will shrink, so I may need to skim coat it to get everything flush.  I anticipate it will be pretty close though.  My only predicament is that the sole is 100% non-skid, and I definitely have not mastered putting non-skid patterns into gel coat.  I'm also not ready to paint the sole, so not really sure what direction I'll go in as I wrap up this repair.  I may just roll with a funny looking spot in the interest of getting things done.  The important thing is that the fiberglass is protected.

So what's next?  Yikes, I still have a lot to do before I launch, but I'm looking closely at what else needs to be done on dry land and needs to be done before I burn out on the big nasty work.   I figure any day now I'll pass out and swear never to break out a grinder or epoxy again.  Here's what I came up with:

• Pump out, remove and clean the fuel tank.  Reinstall with fuel level sending unit, replace straps if necessary.
• Install support blocks for the cockpit locker separator boards.  These will stop them from caving in at the bottom under weight.
• Paint the inside of locker and utility areas prior to installing things which I'll NEVER want to take out again.
• Cut new separator boards, give 'em a layer of fiberglass for waterproofing as well as added strength and stiffness (to support sound deadening panels!)
• Clean up the embarrassingly awful fiberglass job at the steering quadrant box in the transom.  Who ever did that job should be banned from boat work eternally.  Really, it's that bad.
• Reinstall the pedestal, and connect the steering system and engine controls.
• Crank out the electrical work and lanuch this boat!

Yeah, I have my work cut out for me.

Blue Sea Sub Panels

I'm really loving the Blue Sea products.  So far everything feels like it's built very well and the wiring is well laid out.  An intuitive wiring plan is important because boat electronics get VERY complicated, and the easier things are to wire, the more likely you'll be able to trouble shoot it years after the install when something breaks at 2AM in rough seas.




As the CS27 has a relatively small area for mounting electronics panels, I need to consolidate similar devices into sub-panels that save room on the main breaker panel.  It also makes boat operations easier for my family who may not want to search through rows of breakers just to enable a portable DVD player on a 12V accessory plug.  Sure, it's ideal to have the VHF on its own breaker to reduce interference, and increase reliability (less dependence on other devices), but at some point you need to consider the big picture.  I find the probability of these risks to be very low in my design, and the benefits of circuit consolidation to be overwhelming.  I want to keep my boat's interior as clean and uncomplicated as possible.



A secondary benefit of using these panels is that it allows me to locate the aggregation point for device wiring wherever it is most convenient.  By including both positive and negative feeds on the panel it lets me bring device wiring directly to this subpanel rather than having to split positive and negative to different areas.  This again simplifies troubleshooting, installation, and increases the intuition of the design.  If space gets tight in the engine area or electronics locker, I can relocate a subpanel to a locker bulkhead.  I love this flexibility!



I will be using one of these to feed the instruments, including chart plotter and auto pilot.  A second panel will supply power to miscellaneous electronics including 12V sockets, stereo, and VHF.  In doing so, I can reduce my main breakers to a total of eight rather than fifteen.  Not only a big saving in panel space, but also in panel cost.



I'll add subsequent blog posts as I begin the installation.  Hopefully that will be soon; If  I can just get through this bow hatch fiberglass work!

Chartplotter Selected

West Marine is and Raymarine are running a dual promotion now which results in the Raymarine A70D chart plotter having a $500 rebate, and then West Marine throws in a $200 WM gift card.  That's a pretty hard offer to refuse given how close this leaves the A70 to the A50 I was almost going to buy.  After looking at them in the store I think the A70 is a bit more readable having a slightly larger screen, although same resolution.  I'm not going to need or use the fish finder functionality - couldn't stand the idea of losing a zillionth of a knot in speed, or of my beloved sailing vessel being confused with a fishing boat!  But with this discount it's tough to pass up the offer.

The biggest reason I selected this unit is to keep the instruments consistently speaking SeaTalk.  The plotter will have bidirectional communications with the X-5 SmartPilot computer which should be convenient.  The only thing I appear to be sacrificing is the ability to integrate radar in the future.  I'm not sure I really need radar in my intended use of the boat, so I can't really say that this is going to be a future point of regret.  What I do know is that I picked up a nice plotter for a price I'm happy with.

I also purchased a NavPod angled pedestal guard in 1" tubing to match my current pedestal.  That should make the plotter much more ergonomic in use.  I'm not keen on using a full NavPod enclosure for the plotter though; It's awfully large and painfully expensive.  I may end up going that way, but for now I'm going to see if I can fabricate a worthy bracket for it.

I find it interesting that I can order just about anything from Defender and have it in two days, but almost anything I order from the local West Marine store is a week's wait as they onlyy get orders in once per week.  That's a long wait for an exciting toy!

Bow Hatch Installation

As usual, everything was going according to plan, when an earthquake comes along and wrecks my estimates.  In this case, it involves the bow hatch installation.  The original hatch was beyond salvage (or shall I say, the necessary ambition and effort).  I chose a Lewmar Medium Profile Series 60 hatch as a replacement.  What I had planned for a day of work turned into an aggressive week of work with many nights under the halogen work lights at 11pm.  Wish I could get this boat into my driveway!

The Lewmar 60 is very close in required cutout size to the original hatch, falling just under the required dimension.  I thought I might just get away without having to shim it, but as it turns out I needed to build up a little bit all the way around.  I'm guessing about 8 layers of 10oz. cloth will do the job perfectly, which isn't too big a deal.  Unfortunately, there was an additional detail which did not enter into my planning when I purchased the hatch.  The Lewmar's corners are rounded, not square.  Ugh.



In order to get a proper structure and seal I needed to build out a core and laminate to match the new hatch's corner radius.  That's a lot of fiddly time consuming work, although not particularly difficult in and of itself (at least now that I've been doing glass work for almost two years!).

I began by making a corner template out of some scrap cardboard I had hanging around the boat.  I simply traced out one of the corners, cut it out, and verified that all corners matched it on the hatch.  Next, I used that template to cut out four pieces of 1/2" balsa core on the shape of an "L" with the appropriate radius.

I used a Dremel tool with a small router bit (perhaps a #654? not sure...) to rout out the core material between the top and bottom laminates.  This made a nice channel to set the new core blocks into.

Next, I wet out the corners lightly with un-thickened epoxy as called for by all the West Systems guides.  Then, I mixed up a batch of epoxy thickened with colloidal silica, although high-density filler would be excellent as well.  I went for somewhere between mayonnaise and peanut butter consistency.  After buttering up the balsa pieces and the recesses, I pressed them into place, filleted the edges, cleaned up residue, and let it fully cure.

Next step was to grind out a beveled surface inside and out (both sides of the deck) at each corner.  You can see from the picture approximately what the shape of this grinding looks like.  I made it as uniform as possible.  I ended up laminating 8 layers of 10 oz cloth first.  Each piece was approximately 1/8" smaller than the previous to help match the taper.  I also left a little fuzz hanging over the balsa core edge which I'd clean up later.  This leaves a strong edge as the cloth tends to fray during handling, especially on tiny pieces like these.

After grinding the 8 layers to a more uniform surface, I surveyed the repairs.  Three out of four needed a little piece or two added in various shapes to help bring the profile to its needed shape.  I then gave these a kiss with the grinder to smooth things out.

The next step is to add the long laminate shims to bring the edges out to match the corners.  This is another set of 8 layers, again with 1/8" tapers.  This time I built up smaller to larger as I was less concerned about bonding surface do to how little load these will carry.  I just wanted the smoothest possible end product.  It took forever to cut out the 32 18-19" x 1-1/8" strips, but again, it's not very hard to do, and luckily I could do this at home to prepare.

My final touch is to lay down gel coat in the new corners as some of the repair is exposed.  I also needed to drill and fill the original hatch mounting holes as they are exposed when the new hatch is installed.  So, another set of gel coat repairs to do.

After installation, the hatch cut out was finally the correct dimension for the new hatch, and a normal installation could proceed.  At the moment I'm leaning towards through-bolting the Lewmar hatch rather than using wood screws as CS originally did.  Although I'm not a fan of having those bolts exposed below decks, it is a more seaworthy installation.  I'm not worried so much about the hatch being ripped off the boat, but  I noted significant stress cracking around the original  surface mounted holes with some being pulled up almost 1/16". 

Based on these observations I'm not convinced that a surface mount is adequately reinforced.  Perhaps a good epoxy potting job will make a difference here.  I can always go back and through bolt if I notice any signs of fatigue.  I'm hoping to complete this installation over the weekend, so I still have a few days to noodle this idea around in my head.